Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

[AverageGuy]

This subject came up awhile back and someone posted a link to a conibear/body grip trap setter. This video shows how to use them ASAP in the event your dog is in a body grip trap and has a phone number to order them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8r3TmcVMK0

[orhunter]

Thanks Kent. Looks like a handy tool. I always carried a pair of heavy duty boot laces. Glad I never had to use them.

[twistedoak]

if your in an area with high body grip use ,those tools are well worth it in my eye .

my state restricts body grip usage pretty heavily ,but in the right places you could run across them .
part of my standard gear are extra heavy duty industrial grade zip ties.
while not as 1 step as the above tool ,you can ratchet them tight pretty quickly
much faster then the rope method

I also know of people that carry small compound bolt cutters

[GONEHUNTIN']

I bought two of those and sold them. They're heavy and difficult to use. A 6' piece of 1/4" rope is easier to use. The 36" heavy electric ties are easiest and safest of all.

[AverageGuy]

Threading a rope through the springs twice then looping it over your boot or the zip tie down through the springs once and then back through the ratchet portion of the zip tie while the dog is struggling cannot credibly be argued to be simpler or faster than using this tool. Lighter yes, simpler no way. Speed is of the essence.

[jlw034]

Our NAVHDA chapter held a how-to with a local trapping group. A bunch of great guys. Very informative. I fully support them doing their thing, and understand the risk is very close to 0 for my dog.

They didn't mess around, and straight up said your dog most likely won't live if he gets into a conibear, especially smaller dogs. BUT if you want to have the best shot of fast removal, carry a small bolt cutter. I carry a 9inch in my bag, adds a pound, but worth it to me. I've bought 220's and test my cutter on it, cuts no problem. Didn't bother with a 330, cuz my 60lb dog would be dead instantly,

I train all summer wearing my WingWorks vest, and I carry the bolt cutter the entire time. Not because I need it, but because then I don't notice the weight when I start bird hunting.

[LongHammer]

X2 Conibears are no joke. If your dog is not in line of sight when they get caught chances of rescue are slim. If it happens turn it sideways so the dog can breathe and get between the dog and the anchor tightening the chain to limit his movement then go to work on the trap. If you are worried about it enough to buy the tool and pack it around by a trap and practice they are cheap.

[GONEHUNTIN']

Threading a rope through the springs twice then looping it over your boot or the zip tie down through the springs once and then back through the ratchet portion of the zip tie while the dog is struggling cannot credibly be argued to be simpler or faster than using this tool. Lighter yes, simpler no way. Speed is of the essence.

Try one then let me know. I thought you'd kill the dog with it. If the dogs in a 330 it doesn't matter. I'm a trapper and I can tell you that on an unset trap it works fine, not with an animal in it. Electrical ties are the fastest, safest and easiest.

[AverageGuy]

I started Trapping 48 years ago. Have been using Conibears where applicable the last 40 years. I caught this super blanket beaver in a 330 set. I use Conibears, leg holds, snares and live traps depending on what I am doing and where. So I know a little about the subject myself.

The video speaks for itself, the trap is sprung and faux animal in the jaws just as it would be if a dog was in the trap. Other than struggling there is nothing more than can be done to demonstrate the tool's effectiveness.

I frankly suspect you used it wrong and were threading it down through the springs as the tool would be used in a normal trap setting operation, vs how he demonstrates it's use on the outside of the spring for swift rescue of a dog. No other real explanation for how something so straight forward could be claimed to be so difficult, and miraculously more simple than an approach which requires threading a zip tie down through the springs and then back through the racket of the zip tie.

Sometimes the pain of trying to be helpful on the internet seems not worth it.

[GONEHUNTIN']

The trap twists when you don't go down through the springs. To each their own. I prefer thevelec ties. Everyone should use what's easiest for them. I had two, one for 220 and one fine 330 and didn't like them.

[hicntry]

"Sometimes the pain of trying to be helpful on the internet seems not worth it."

Welcome to my world AG. Just remember, the ones actually trying to learn something from experience are listening....not posting.

[STait]

Looks very effective and lightweight. Thanks for posting, I am going to order a set.

[GONEHUNTIN']

If you just get one, get the 220.

[Deuce]

36" industrial zip ties for me. I used to trap and would show people on a regular basis.

The nice thing about the zip ties is that you can start them, decompress the springs a bit and the ties will hold them where ratcheted and you can move the conibear vertically so it is not restricting the windpipe. From there you can ratchet more and more until you can get it off. Is it easy? No. Is it easier than a rope? Yes. Is it easier than bolt cutter? No.

Whatever your method buy a conibear and practice.

[JONOV]

I've played with conibears before but never tried to unspring one or done any training in trying to unspring one. The metal doesn't look that thick...would you have time to get through the bars with a small hacksaw? Or is that ill advised due to time and movement of the animal? Thinking a hacksaw might be lighter than a small bolt cutter. Although the bolt cutter is heavy, at the end of the day it isn't that much more than an extra water bottle or two, and I could probably rig it to ride on my belt were I to hunt in areas with trapping prevalent.