How to teach handling

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Re: How to teach handling

Postby Densa44 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:03 pm

Cold blinds, aren't they always cold? Anyway, yes that is what I'm teaching but I make it easy at first to build the dog's confidence and as others here have called the "Amish" method, no pressure. My background was Field trails before hunt tests were invented and if the dog went out of sight on a blind you were out of the trail, thus my comment and the search versus handling on blinds.

I've taught my dogs to suit me and how I hunt. For example I always drop the dummies when she brings them back and she picks them up almost before they hit the ground. Old field trailers will know why.

It makes it fun for the dogs and the handler.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby Bruce Schwartz » Thu Oct 12, 2017 2:26 pm

GONEHUNTIN' wrote:You're teaching blinds; sight blinds will become cold blinds. Foot scent has absolutely nothing to do with it. As Doc said, a good book or DVD is invaluable. For walking baseball, which I believe D.L. Wolters invented, his book is great. His mother, Anne, was the greatest force trainer in the country at one time. Ear Pinch, not collar.


Yes, D.L. Walters (not Wolters) is given credit for coming up with the Walking Baseball Drill. His x-wife (not his mother) was Ann, and she was also a great dog trainer, and together they wrote the book "Training Retrievers to Handle" (1968) which is a classic. I knew her slightly when I ran some licensed field trials in Nebraska back in the day.

Richard Wolters is the person who wrote the well known books Gun Dog, Water Dog, etc. in the 80's and was the one who started hunt tests (where you tested against a standard rather than first, second place, etc.).
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby GONEHUNTIN' » Thu Oct 12, 2017 3:13 pm

Actually Bruce, much as I dislike the book, Water Dog is not the worst book for someone like MissK to use to teach a dog to handle. It's been 30 years since I've read it but as I remember it was very low or no pressure and a lot of pictures. He may have been a crappy dog trainer but he was a master promoter.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby 3drahthaars » Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:06 pm

GONEHUNTIN' wrote:Actually Bruce, much as I dislike the book, Water Dog is not the worst book for someone like MissK to use to teach a dog to handle. It's been 30 years since I've read it but as I remember it was very low or no pressure and a lot of pictures. He may have been a crappy dog trainer but he was a master promoter.


For sure...

... and, he ruined a generation of pointing dogs by promoting too much wing on the string sight pointing.

3ds
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby GONEHUNTIN' » Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:13 pm

3drahthaars wrote:
GONEHUNTIN' wrote:Actually Bruce, much as I dislike the book, Water Dog is not the worst book for someone like MissK to use to teach a dog to handle. It's been 30 years since I've read it but as I remember it was very low or no pressure and a lot of pictures. He may have been a crappy dog trainer but he was a master promoter.


For sure...

... and, he ruined a generation of pointing dogs by promoting too much wing on the string sight pointing.

3ds


Remember teaching whoa? Jump out from behind a building, yell whoa, and hit him with your hat? What a bonehead.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby Misskiwi67 » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:36 pm

Foot scent has nothing to do with it?

My dog will follow foot scent 400+ yds.

My dog will NOT take a cold line 400 yds.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby GONEHUNTIN' » Fri Oct 13, 2017 5:54 am

You're not understanding teaching handling. Picture a cross, not a T, like a + sign. From the bottom of the + sign the dog may run to the top of it six times to a sighted pile. So it has absolutely NOTHING to do with any foot scent, it has to do with rote. You may not even plant the bumpers by walking straight out, but by walking to the right or left leg first, then to center. The legs are also NOT 400 yards, but maybe 50-100'.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby Chadwick » Fri Oct 13, 2017 2:24 pm

Do the baseball thing, but use marker training and some flat targets on the lawn. When the dog touches the target, mark the behavior and reward the dog when it returns to you. Set the dog up sitting on the pitcher's mound and repeat. Start with one direction and teach the dog to go to the target. Once the dog has one direction down, do the other. Teach back after left and right have been established. Once the dogs are going to the targets, fade the targets by moving them farther and farther back until they are hidden from sight of the dog. Once the dog will go to a target that is out of the your sight, so that you can no longer time the marker, then replace the targets with bumpers and keep extending the distance to what ever you want.

Doing it without the bumpers at the start isolates the behavior and the dogs seem to learn it pretty quickly.
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Re: How to teach handling

Postby JONOV » Mon Oct 16, 2017 1:56 pm

Misskiwi67 wrote:We hunt ducks by jump-shoot. Rarely we will hunt geese from ground blinds. So the dog is in adown-stay 75 yds from the pond until we are done shooting. Every duck is a blind/search.

If you jump, but don't shoot, they'll come back in ones and two's and you can get more than three hail mary shots off.
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