Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

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Re: Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

Postby carramrod » Tue Oct 17, 2017 12:39 pm

I haven't tried any with a live animal in the trap, but a trap setter might be another option. F&T has plenty to choose from including some like the video: https://www.fntpost.com/Categories/Trap ... p+Setters/

I don't see any way a hacksaw would get through that in time especially with a struggling animal.

A 220 would be my biggest fear. A 330 would be almost too bad to do anything I feel, and also they have been regulated to be completely submerged when set in a lot of states (not that everyone plays by the rules). A 110 i don't even know if his head would fit in, and they are weak enough to compress by hand.
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Re: Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

Postby AverageGuy » Tue Oct 17, 2017 3:24 pm

For Body Grip traps of all sizes the tool in the video is the fastest route to get the dog out. Watch the video again if you need to be convinced. Technique matters so pay attention to that. If too stubborn to concede what you see with your own eyes then do as you please.

I talked with Ron the man in the video today on the phone. He has altered the tool to have a shorter chain on it for specific use in freeing a dog in the trap. The tool works on 220, 280 and 330 conibears so no need to buy different sizes. Tell him you are using the tool to get a dog out of the trap when ordering and he will sell you the tool specific to that purpose.

9 inch bolt cutters are fine for a 220 but too light for a 330. Yea the dog might be dead already but I am going to be prepared to do all I can swiftly to get my dog out. Which means I will packing the tool in the video. I have had numerous beavers move around and even pull out stakes when they hit a 330 so the result is not always instantaneous. Further with an ecollar on the dog's neck it may well provide some margin of difference in how much the jaws close if it hits on the ecollar. What I know for certain is if my dog gets into a trap including a 330 I am going to get him out and assess the damage after the fact.

Hacksaw is hopeless.

My dog will stick his head underwater and has a keen interest in fur. He has done it with muskrat dens several times. So putting his head in a submerged 330 seems a possibility. Snares are another concern and are increasingly popular for trapping beavers and coyotes. I always have a leatherman tool with dyke wire cutters at the back of the plier jaws, on my belt, and that is my plan in the event of my dog in a snare.

Legholds are pretty easy. I would loop my leash over the dogs head and snub his head back from the leg in the trap, compress the springs with my hands and remove the trap.

Practicing is excellent advice.
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Re: Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

Postby GONEHUNTIN' » Tue Oct 17, 2017 5:34 pm

I've tried cutting snare cable with and they don't, or it takes a long time. Might want to try that first.

I don't worry much about snares around us because they are all required to have deer stops on them so can't close and strangle the dog. If you live where killer snares like Ramline's are legal, look out. They are more deadly than any Connibear and I believe unless you SEE the dog get caught, it would be impossible to get one out in time.

Trapper Ron may have changed the design, it's been a few years since I've owned the setter. I hated them and immediately sold them. Had to carry two and them were made of chain saw chain so were very heavy. I'd sure want to try one before I bought one. Their hard operation is why I went to the 36" ties.
I just hate seeing birds die of natural causes unless I'm that natural cause.
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Re: Freeing Dog from Body Grip Trap

Postby AverageGuy » Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:00 pm

I know the laws in my own state which are "cable restraints", but I travel and hunt so many other states/providences I do not know all the detail in their laws around "Cable Restraints" vs Snares.

My Belt tool will cut either one - Image

You recommended practicing - apparently Trapper Ron did practice because the speed with which he disables those springs is extremely fast. Hence why I posted. If he can do it so can I and others. The key is obvious in the video - Grab ahold of the spring in the manner he shows and put some downward pressure on the tool as you pull so the notch goes down over the spring and seats. If it were not so clear in the video I would not argue. But it is.
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